Thursday, July 26, 2007

Step Into Liquid

Every year, the Billabong Pro Surf Tour showcases the most elite surfing talent at prime break spots around the world. In early July, the Tour makes its only stop on the African continent at South Africa's veritable Mecca of surfing: Jeffrey's Bay.

J-Bay is a small town, though what it lacks it size it makes up for in craziness. Bars, surf shops, hot women, white sand and a Hell of a lot of waves draw people from all over to the shores of J-Bay, and the fervour reaches its zenith during the Billabong event.

Well, I wish I could tell you that I showed up in time for the competition, but I was 2 days late. Could have made it, though I probably would have ended up sleeping in a dumpster because the place books up months in advance. Not to worry though, since it turned out there was a nice surprise waiting for me when I arrive. By the way, sorry Iain, I know you sleep in a dumpster every night, I'm just saying...

J-Bay has six beaches, each of which present surfers with different wave characteristics. The place is blessed with huge ocean swells and consistently high winds, and one look at the trademark surf beach Supertubes leaves you with little doubt as to white the Billabong calls here: it is the longest right-breaking wave in the world. And it is friggin massive.

So, you ask, was I out there with the big boys, strutting my stuff and breaking young girls' hearts? Nope. Hey, I know many of you think I'm crazy, but I know my limits. Supertubes would kill me: 5+ meter swells, jagged rocks, and lets not forget the friendly neighbourhood sharks. So when I arrived in J-Bay, I chose to stay on the shore.

But Kelly Slater didn't.

Slater is the 8-time world champion, undisputed king of competitive surfing. The J-Bay event may have ended, but Slated decided to stick around and practice at Supertubes before moving on to the next event. As if he needed it.

The result was that the beach was still crowded with onlookers gazing in awe as Slater tamed the waves, not so much surfing but writing poetry on the water that would have made Wordsworth sob tears of joy. As someone who has taken a keen interest in the sport of late, it was a true privilege to sit on the shore, quaff a few beers and watch this guy go. It's a little like heading down to your local football pitch only to discover that Becks or Zidane has showed up to kick the ball around.

So to Slater, I say that you are the man. And to Supertubes, I say that I will see you again someday soon. In the water.

I just need to practice on a few less life-threatening breaks first, okay?

2 comments:

Isis Almeida said...

Cool!!! I've seen him in Rio quite a lot of times when we used to host more surfing competitions. Just amazing what HE does to the waves! hehehe

Saudades de voce. Espero que esteja se diverstindo e aprendendo Afrikaans.

Beijão,

jh.. said...

pffffft. can slater surf itauna's BACKWARDS breaks?


so what if he can. he probably didn't stay at the hotel saquarema - what a friggin' dive, i'm glad we're stiiiill aliiiive...

you know the tune. haha, great times. glad to hear you're having some surf fun, even if it is of the spectator variety.